U-Do-It-Duino

This page is still under construction.

Parts List
Atmega 328-PU
Chip socket
6 pin mail right angle header
C1,C4,C6, ceramic capacitors
C8,C5, tantalum capacitor
16 MHz resonator
resistor array A103J
D1, 3 mm LED blue
D2, 3 mm LED
D4, 3 mm LED
D5, 3 mm LED
D3, D6, diode
6mm pushbutton
SW2, DPDT slide switch
DPDT slide switch
DC barrel Jack
U1, voltage regulator
Q1, transistor
PV1, potentiometer
R1, resistor 1k
R2, resistor 220
Grove connector, straight
6x2 mail header
10p female header
2x 8p female header
2x 6p female header

Tools
Computer to program your U-Do-It-Duino
Iron
knife (to cut the solder jumper)

Drivers for the Silicon Laboratories SINGLE-CHIP USB TO UART BRIDGE
https://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/Pages/USBtoUARTBridgeVCPDrivers.aspx

Data Sheet
https://www.silabs.com/Support%20Documents/TechnicalDocs/CP2102-9.pdf
Most of the moduals have the CP2102 chip.

Solder Your First Part
Resistor (R2)




Bend it


Place it


With resistors you do not need to worry about what direction it is placed in to the board.


You can ben the wires to help hold the component in place.


Now it's time to solder.




Take a moment to atmire your handiwork.


Give your board a trim.




It should look some thing like this

Time for (R1)

Here is where you put it. ( Note that this is an update. The rest of the pictures will not have this exact resistor ).


Time for the DIP (Dual in-line package). Notes that there is a little notch on the end.


You need to match the notch in the socket with the marking on the printed circuit bard.

I recommend soldering just 2 corners first.


Then push the socket down and reheat the solder on the two spots. This way you can get the socket to sit snugly against the circuit board.


Now you're ready to solder all of them.


Next place in the six pin right angle header at the edge of the board.


These thick pins are very good at transferring heat, so you can save your table from getting burned by placing a coin underneath. Be careful not to heed them for too long, or the black plastic will melt. For this component you only need to solder one pin first.


Again reheat the solder while pushing the right angle header into place. You can use your coin to prevent from burning your fingers.




Once you're happy with its placement, solder the rest of of them. For these photos we were using a glass table, that's why there is no coin in this picture. haha


Now let's try the little ceramic capacitors. As you can see there are three of them. These components are also unaffected by what direction you place them in. C1 is used as part of the communication circuit between the microprocessor and the serial line. C2 is used to smooth out the power that comes from the barrel Jack. C4 is to smooth out the USB power.


This big fat component is called a resonator. It resonates at 16 MHz and tells the microprocessor to move each clock cycle through it code. "This component is like really important."


Now let's place the most expensive component on the board. The microprocessor is a Atmega328 by Atmel. It is very important that you place it in, in the right direction. Make sure that the notch in the microprocessor lines up with the notch in the socket.




There should be three markings altogether one end.


It takes a significant amount of pressure to push the chip into the socket.


The microprocessor now has everything it needs to start communicating by serial to your computer. Make sure you did not put the cable in backwards. The grounds should go to the grounds and so on.


These are electrolytic capacitors. They have much more capacity than the small ceramic capacitors. The small ceramic capacitors can respond quickly to higher frequency ripple in the power. These larger electrolytic capacitors can dampen out bigger slower changes in power.
Electrolytic capacitors need to be placed in the circuit board with the right direction. The longer lead goes in the whole marked with the plus sign (+).


The negative side is also marked (-). It is marked by the big white stripe with the negative signs on it.
This is the location for C3.


This is the location for C5.


Here the + is a little messed up, but you can still see it.


Once the electrolytic capacitors are in place the only way to check their polarity ( direction ) is by the white stripe that represents the negative side of the capacitor.


Now it's time to place the resistor array.


This resistor array contains all of the resistors used for the reset button "pull up" and the four neighboring LEDs. We will talk about the "pull up" later when we talk about the reset button.


It is important that the diamond is placed at the same end as the solder pad with the square around it.


43

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Install The Microcontroller
Install The USB Drivers
Test Your Microcontroller
Install The Indicator LEDs
Test The Indicator LEDs
Install The Transistor
Test The Transistor
Install The Voltage Regulator
Test The Voltage Regulator

Install The Capacitors
Install The Reset Button
Install The Connectors

Install The Potentiometer
Test The Potentiometer

Parts List
Atmega 328-PU
Chip socket
6 pin mail right angle header
C1,C4,C6, ceramic capacitors
C8,C5, tantalum capacitor
16 MHz resonator
resistor array A103J
D1, 3 mm LED blue
D2, 3 mm LED
D4, 3 mm LED
D5, 3 mm LED
D3, D6, diode
6mm pushbutton
SW2, DPDT slide switch
DPDT slide switch
DC barrel Jack
U1, voltage regulator
Q1, transistor
PV1, potentiometer
R1, resistor
R2, resistor 10k
Grove connector, straight
6x2 mail header
10p female header
2x 8p female header
2x 6p female header

Try LED blinking Sketch
Use the this code

//************************************************************************************
const int Pin = 1;
 
void setup() {
  // initialize digital pin as an output.
  pinMode(Pin, OUTPUT);
}
 
// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
  digitalWrite(Pin, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(300);              // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(Pin, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
  delay(300);              // wait for a second
}
//************************************************************************************

You can also try pin 0
Just change the value for "Pin"

Add The Transistor The transistor is useful because it can switch on more power then the chip can by it's self.
Solder:
Transistor (Q1)
Diode (D6)
LED (D5)
Resister (R1) 1k
Resister (R2) 10k
Slide Switch DPDT

Note: DPDT http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

//************************************************************************************
void setup() {
  // initialize digital pin 13 as an output.
  pinMode(0, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(9, OUTPUT);
}
 
// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
  digitalWrite(0, LOW);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(300);              // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(0, HIGH);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
 
  digitalWrite(1, LOW);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(300);              // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(1, HIGH);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
 
  digitalWrite(9, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(300);              // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(9, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
 
}
//************************************************************************************

Slide the switch towards the edge.
Note: The switch connects Pin 9 to the transistor and the Potentiometer to pin A0. Use the switch to disconnect the transistor and Potentiometer, this way you can use the pins for other things
Now try the Blink sketch with Pin 9

Next you can solder the 6-pin Female connector, and try some more high power things such as bigger LEDs, Speakers, and small motors.

Solder:
Potentiometer

Reset push button

DC Jack
Solder:
Voltage Regulator (U1)
Diode (D3)
Ceramic Capacitor (C4)
Electrolytic Capacitors (C5)

Cut Trace
Solder:
Slide Switch
DC Jack

Test DC Jack

Solder:
Ceramic Capacitor (C6)
Electrolytic Capacitors (C8)

Solder:
I2C Connector

Solder:
I2C Connector

Trouble Shooting

if the power LED and the TX LED are on the moment you plug in the 6 pin cable, then the cable is plugged in backwards.